Wednesday, July 28, 2010
Fake Wiimotes
FAKE Nintendo Wiimotes, Nunchuks, Classic Controllers and Wii Motion Plus attachments on eBayBEWARE!
How powerful is a electric log splitter??
You are thinking of buying a electric log splitter from Ebay??There are a few things that you should take into account when purchasing a log splitter from Ebay.1. What kind of wood am I splitting??A electric log splitter will split most timbers including Gum Trees, but there is also a few they will not, Yellow box, Red Box and Iron Bark are a couple that will have trouble, the grain structure of these timbers are generally very twisted and interlocking making them near impossible to split unless going to a 22 Ton machine. We often use the rule if you can split it the log splitter will you just will not have to swing the axe.2. What size machine is best suited??You will see a lot of machines advertised as 8 TON and 8TON peak, this is just BULLS#@T and false advertising, these machines are 6 ton at the most and that is peak, another one is only 4 ton, in hydraulics there is a law that governs max pressure, this is called Pascals Law, to work out max pressure you need to know the cylinder diameter and the max pressure of the pump, if you have a pump that produces 3000PSI and a cylinder that is 2.2 Inches you will need to multiply 3.14 being pi x radius of the cylinder squared, so 3.14 x 1.1 x1.1 this will give you the area of your round cylinder, this being 3.8 square inches, now you need to multiply this by the pressure, 3.8 x 3000 = 11400 pounds now to convert this into tonnes you need to divide by 2200 and that will give you the answer in tonnes, for the machine advertised as 8ton suddenly becomes 5T and that is peak, providing there is no friction and bad pump wear.Now to identify a proper 6 ton machine or 7 ton machine you will need to look for the pressure that the pump puts out, it would need to put out 3600PSI and the electric motor to drive this high pressure pump will need to be 2000W for a 6 ton and a 2350W for a 7 ton.7 Ton is the MAX size you will see in the conventinal machines on Ebay, don't be sucked into the so called 8 Ton machines. these don't even test upto 6 ton, these are suited to pine, you need at least 6 ton or better 7 ton for hardwoods.
AUSTRALIAN M9 Buck Bayonet
One of the more desirable modern bayonets issued to Australian armed forces is the Australian M9 BUCK Bayonet fighting knife. The history to the BUCK Bayonet was originally the third development by the Qual-A-Tec folk, a small R
Dos
Ok, so are you really reading? If you are, then I guess you've either been burnt or afraid to be burnt again.Here is my story and I'd like to share with you all, thus gather a few Dos and Don'ts before you click the 'Buy' button.Everybody does eBay these days, and the other day I bought off an iPhone alike mobile phone off eBay from an overseas seller, who is also an powerseller.After paid by paypal I emailed the seller requesting for a tracking number, as the postage was $50! For whatever reason, the tracking number never arrived in my inbox, fair enough, then I have to keep my finger crossed every second...After around 2 weeks, I got a letter from Australia Custom! Apparently, it's a counterfeit iPhone mobile phone, and under the Trade Act basically, that means I'm in deep trouble! The letter was extremely formal and request my personal details for Apple Inc for further investigation?!Sugar!After three months contacts with several departments at Australia Custom, I finally got out of this deal and requested a refund via paypal, however since the seller was able to provide a tracking number, and I couldn t return the goods for a full refund, the mobile phone has never got into my hand and cost me $200 deduction via paypal and not to mention the level of stress and amount of time I've spent with Custom trying to explain what has happened.So for you guys out there wondering should you get a cheapy gadget from an overseas seller ( regardless his/her powerseller status), be mindful and be careful. There is nothing cheap in this world, especially when it cost a lot less than it may appears. Dos1. Try to buy from local suppliers who can provide an ABN or ACN, for your peace of mind, any disputes that paypal or eBay tends to ignore or incapable of handling, by all means, you'll always have your state fair trading and national ASIC / ACCC to go. For certain industries, you can also approach the national ombudsman if your dispute cannot be resolved via eBay or paypal.2. Powerseller status is only an indicative misleading flag. There are lots of trustworthy good aussie blokes who have no idea how to operate effectively on eBay to sell his products, while compare to those professional overseas sellers who are usually a team of at least 10 people. No wonder they can respond to your enquire in a 'Timely Manner'. Think again, have you ever tried to call 3G customer service hotline? Yeap, they were quick on the phone, but you have no idea of what's the other person talking about, I'm dirty, my wife is dirty too? (I'm 30, my wife is 30 too, read it out loud!) As long as a seller achieves a $2000 sale three months in a roll and maintain 98% feedback, there you go, you can get one too! Got what I mean? Always check throughly of the feedback upto three pages. See what's other people's comments, was it something like'Fast delivery' or'Reliable Seller, will Shop again' etcIf a buyer mentioned him/her is likely to use this seller again, 80% you are on the right track.3. Send a quick email or ask a simple question to the seller, and see the respond time. On average, an Aussie company respond customer enquires within 48 hours is reasonable, considering the human resource we've got on our vast land.And the Don'ts?Well, personally, I will never ever buy from overseas seller on eBay again, period. Just imagine the hassle for an Aussie seller attempts to sell his/her products on eBay to UK customers, I dont reckon it's actually worth anything especially when it comes to return / repair / warranty claims etc. Always trust the local Aussie sellers / suppliers is the way to go.Guys, please vote for me if you think this article is a quality one, cheers!
Quicken Quickbooks - Don't buy used!
If you are thinking about buying used Quicken software (e.g., Quickbooks 2005/06), you may want to reconsider your purchase...***Quicken does not permit any of its products to be onsold This means that the owner of a licensed Quicken product is not permitted to sell you the product that they own. Even if that seller gives you a receipt (or 'transfer papers'),he/sheis nevertheless transgressing the license agreement under which the software was originally installed and used.***Why is this important?The upshot of this is that you (as the potential next buyer) will not be able to register your product with Quicken simply because you are not the original owner. ***Just to reiterate: Quicken does not permit any of its products to be onsold!Thisrestriction appliesirrespective of whether the item is being sold publicly (as on Ebay), or privately (to a colleague, friend, or family member). ***If you ring Quicken (tel. 1300 784 253 in Australia),they will confirm this restrictionI was about to buy a used version of Quickbooks before I learned of this policy from Quicken customer service; thankfully, I did not proceed. The person I spoke to also advised that many people unwittingly buy used Quicken products off EBay that are effectively useless because the software cannot be registered a second time. (Each product has its own unique ID key; the license cannot be transferred.)***And one last thing...Just because something is described as "sealed" or in its "original box" doesn't meanthat the product is new or that it hasn't been registered. (It could easily have been opened and used, and then resealed.) Caveat emptor - let the buyer beware!Be careful if you are buying used Quicken products!
COLLECTING OLD GOLF CLUBS by Peter Dempsey
With names like Brassie; Spoon; Mid-iron; Mashie; Jigger;Niblick; Baffy; Cleek; Push-iron; Mongrel Mashie and putting iron you maybe baffled at whatis for sale in the sports equipment pages of EBAY.Be warned, life golf itself, this hobby can became all-engrossing. It takes over basements, garages, even living rooms, until a wife puts down her foot. Like Mrs Snow in the musical Carousel, who wed a fisherman and eventually decided fish is my favourite perfume, an antique club restorers wife learns to love the smell of varnish and bees-wax polish!The origins of golf are lost in history, but in its present form it is generally agreed to have been played in Scotland near St. Andrews in the late 1400s. In the 15th Century it is documented that the King of Scotland banned his subjects from playing the game because many had become so obsessed with the game that they were neglecting their archery practice. In the subsequent 500 years, the game has advanced from one played with simple hand made clubs made from tough woods such as Beech, Holly, Pear and Apple the shafts were made from Ash or Hazel. The early clubs were prone to breakage and a golfer could expect to break at least one club during a round. These factors meant that golf was typically associated with the upper echelons of society.You can look at the history of golf in three eras, based on the type of ball used. The design of clubs has tended to follow improvements in golf ball design.The very early golfers used an all wooden ball; From the early 1800s the feathery golf ball was used. This was made by stuffing one Top-Hat full of fine Gosling feathers (after boiling) into a leather bound ball.Most shots were accomplished by a range of wooden clubs. The rutting-iron was used to extract balls that had landed in cart wheel ruts.The first big change came with the gutty ball around 1850. This was made from a solid moulded rubber called gutta-percha. It was much stronger than the feathery, and a range of iron made clubs were introduced, as they gave the golfer better control over the ball and the ability to hit it out of difficult lies. These early iron clubs were made by the local black-smiths. Iron clubs were made by the local black-smiths until perhaps the 1870s. As a result they were rather crude, heavy implements with massive hosel (shanks). They were hard to use and when drop forging became widely available, the mass of the clubs decreased considerably. The words hand forged on the back of hickory shaft clubs in the 1900s was in fact a misnomer, as the only thing done by hand by that time was the impressing of the makers name and cleek mark. The cleek mark was a form of trademark, they range from pictures of pipes, crosses, crowns to diamonds. As a rule of thumb, the more stuff stamped on a club, the newer it tends to be.The introduction of golf in America in the early 1800s lead to hickory wood being used in the shafts of the clubs. Hickory became standard until steel shafts were introduced around 1925.After the 1920s golf clubs were manufactured on a mass scale in factories. The Americans started to number the clubs and so the names (all but Driver and Putter) were slowly forgotten.The final phase has been the adaptation of computer aided design (CAD) to club design. Materials such as graphite shafts and titanium metal woods have come into widespread use in the last 20 years.SO WHAT ARE THEY WORTH?The oldest (and most mysterious) set of golf clubs found rank as the greatest attic find in the history of golf. A set of six woods and two irons (typical number in a set at the time) were discovered in Hull, England in 1900, wrapped in a Yorkshire newspaper dated 1741. No one knows who made them or the exact significance of a lozenge with a crown over a thistle, a star in between, flanked with the letters ic marked on one of the irons and all six woods. Many experts think they date from the early 1600s . What is certain is that in 1998 the Troon Golf Club in Scotland, which has owned the sticks almost since their discovery, turned down an offer of $4.4m from the World Golf Museum in St. Augustine, Florida, and voted instead to continue to display the clubs at the British Golf Museum at St. Andrews.So if you find a set of all wooden clubs wrapped up in an old newspaper, in the attic or a shed you then need to determine if those clubs are commons (some of the many millions made after 1900) or another set of Royal Troons!?However, please remember a true relic deserves respect, even everence. You may be tempted to spruce up an old stick, make it shine and hang it on your wall but wait!! The more you do to a club, the less its worth. The club should have an appropriate patina for its age. You risk ruining its value if you impose your twenty first century ideas of what it would have looked like.They look old because they are old.It is widely thought that old hickory shaft golf clubs are scarce and therefore valuable. Most are found in a poor condition and therefore look very old, but in most cases they are just neglected. Many millions of clubs were made with hickory shafts between 1900 and the mid 1920s. As a result, most of the clubs one finds are neither rare nor valuable, even when in good condition. Expect between $20 to $80 a club.Also expect to pay a premium for matching clubs or sets,and remember that woods tend to fetch a higher figure than irons.More unusual clubs,either with a design introduction,patented or even just the bizare will sell between $50 and $100 here in Australia.Sunday walking (golf) sticks (a whole new market ) are selling between $400 to $600 in 2006, as a refection of the double interest coming from both golf club collectors andcollectors of walking sticks.Golf has been played in Australia since the 1830s, but the first golf professional and club maker recorded here was Richard Taylor in 1891. So clubs with Australian markings date from that year. Many clubs have the professionals name impressed on their head or shaft. This gives us a way of dating the club, provided we know something about the man.A very helpful list of early Australian golf professionals written by David Nicholls can easily be found during a google search,a must for any serious collector in Australia.END - Peter Dempsey 08/06/2006 For EBAY
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