Griffith Laboratories White Milk Glass Spice Jars

Shown withclosedand partially open Three Mountaineers Spice Cabinet.
I'll say one thing about the folks at Griffith Labs - they were prolific. In the twenty or so years these jars were in production(late 1930's - 1950's), the design was changed several times which kept them looking fresh and appealing. As for sets, rack mounted white milk glass jars were available in sets of eight, twelve, sixteen, eighteen, twenty-twoand twenty-four.Rack mountedor clear jars in a cabinet were available in sets of twelve and twenty-four.I've seen other quantities listed on e-Bay selling with and without the racks.According to their website, before World War II the racks were made of plastic. During the war, they were made of wood and after the war wood/metal gebination or plastic again.Following is a quote from the Griffith Laboratories website, used with their permission:

"Around 1939, senior management wanted to make the Griffith Laboratories name familiar to the general public. The gepany came up with an imaginative and highly successful idea. Griffith created a set of twelve high-quality spices, each in its own stylishly designed, gleaming white glass jar. Each jar was sealed with an airtight cap with a convenient sifter top beneath. The [original] set of 12 spice jars, which came with an attractive plastic rack, contained allspice, celery salt, ground cinnamon, ground cloves, garlic salt, ginger, dry mustard, nutmeg, paprika, black pepper, poultry seasoning and roast meat seasoning. The gepany, concerned about contamination from mold and bacteria, used a revolutionary proprietary purifying method to make sure the spices were clean, safe and pure. Sold through the home furnishings departments of Marshall Field's, Macy's and other fine stores, the Griffith spice set was successful immediately. Over the years, Griffith updated the design and introduced bright colors to coordinate with the popular color schemes of the time. When the supply of suitable plastic declined dramatically during World War II, Griffith changed the display rack material to wood. After the war, inexpensive and moldable plastic became available and a fresh design was created. The gepany used polystyrene, a light and sturdy plastic that can be molded into virtually any shape, for its new post-war rack design. [text redacted]...We don't manufacture or sell our spice sets anymore. But we honor them as an important part of our history."
Spices: Names / Quantity / Suggestions
Thelist oforiginal spice names are above. More availablespices in the tall and shortwhitejarsinclude: Allspice, Anise, Barbecue Smoke Salt, Basil (Sweet Basil) Bay Leaf,Black Pepper,Caraway Seed, Cayenne Pepper, Celery Salt, Chili Seasoning, Cinammon or Ground Cinammon,Coriander( original??), Curry Powder, Dry Mustard or Mustard Flour, Epicure Salt, Fennel Seed, Garlic Salt, Ground Bayleaf, Ground Cardamom, Ground Cloves, Ground Ginger, Nutmeg, Mace, Marjoram, Mint, Onion Salt, Paprika, Poultry Seasoning, RoastMeat Seasoning, Rosemary, Sage, Salad Herbs, Steak Seasoning, Thyme, White Pepper, Whole Cloves. Some of these are only available on the very old sets 4-1/8" tall with the yellowedpaper half moon labels.
Clear spice set namesgathered so far:Anise, Bay Leaf, Black Pepper, Celery Salt, Celery Seed, Chef Seasoning, Chili Seasoning, Coriander, Cumin Seed, Curry Powder, Dill Seed, Epicure Salt, Fennel Seed, Fenugreek, Garlic Salt, Ginger, Marjoram, Meat Tenderizer, Mustard Flour, Mustard Seed, Nutmeg, Onion Salt,Oregano, Paprika, Parsley Flakes, Poppy Seed, Poultry Seasoning, RoastMeat Seasoning, Rosemary, Salad Herbs, Sesame Seed, Steak Seasoning, Sweet Basil, Thyme, Turmeric.
And, as I find more names for either set, I will add them.Most of these spices are stillavailable in your local grocery store or on the internet. For those that are not ( such as the Epicure Salt), you can have fun making your own blends.
Description of Jars
L to R: #1-back of 4-1/4", #2,3,4- fronts of 4-1/4", #5,6- front and back 3-1/2" #7- front of clear 3-1/2"
The standard heights are(1) 4-1/4" tall with the lid on, 4-1/8" tall without lid and 1-3/4" squareor 3-1/2" tall with the lid on and (2) 3-1/4" without lid and 1" square.White milk glass Griffith spice jars for sale here on e-bayhave been described in several different heights including 2-3/4", 2-7/8"3", 3-1/2", 4-1/8", 4-1/4", 4-3/16 andthree widths ( 1', 1-1/2", 1-3/4") in clear and white milk glass. The jars themselves seem to have a pinkish, bluish or grayish cast to them that is probably related to the time frame in which they were produced ( pre and post World War II).I've also seen a drop dead gorgeous set in a milk chocolate brown color with brown or copperlids. Speaking oflids, colors seen so far are yellow, beige, black, red, turquoise blue, pink, paleJadeitegreen,dark green, white and medium blue. The lids on the shorter clearjars were silver, gold, blackor copper. Label colors are clear and yellowon the front and "white but yellow-ing from old age" on the back.Hopefully info from Griffith Labs will help collectors to know which colors are original and set a standard for buyers and sellers. But, in the meantime, these four milk glassjar designs are most gemonly seen on e-Bay:


plain (no columns)front, backs and sides which are usually found on the 3" or 3-1/2"jars (#5 in photo above);
plain (no columns) front and back with two long vertical bars and one short horizontal bar on each of the sides usually found on the 3"-3-1/2" tall jars (#5 in photo above);
two short inset columns joined by an inset bar along the bottom on the front;three graduatedraisedcolumns on two face sides; with two raised horizontalbars and four short/narrow raised columns on the back (one in each corner.) The shorter descriptive label usually fits in the center on this side. This configuration is found in the 4-1/8" - 4-1/4" tall jars (#3 in photo above);
fourraised varying height columns onthree face sides with two raised horizontalbars and four short/narrow raised columns on the back (one in each corner) where the descriptive label fits. This isalso usually found on the 4-1/8" - 4-1/4" tall jars (#2 and #4 in photo above.)
Frontlabel Styles
Front labels styles for Griffith spice jars.
So far, I've seen one paper label style, three black paintedlabel styles and three different methods of application:

White (oryellowed from old age) paper withblack text- arounded half moon atopa long front label. These labels were probably applied with some type of durable glue and appear to be the oldest applied label. Found on both 3-1/2" or 4-1/8" tall jars(#3 in photo above.)
The text on the front labels for these jars appears in two different layouts: (1) "Griffiths Purified" is printed under the oval and the spice name is printed in single letters down the front. And, (2) "Purified" along with the spice name is printed under the oval and "Griffiths" is printed in single letters down the front of the lable.
Yellow paint with black text, rounded half moon atopa long front label. These rarely seenlabels appear to have beenapplied by a special two step manufacturing process or painted by hand.Found on 3-1/2" or 4-1/8" tall jars(#3 in photo above.)
The text on the front labels for these jars appears in two different layouts: (1) "Griffiths Purified" is printed under the oval and the spice name is printed in single letters down the front. And, (2) "Purified" along with the spice name is printed under the oval and "Griffiths" is printed in single letters down the front of the lable.
Clear front labelwith black text decorated by arounded half moon atopa long front label that appears to behandapplied and fired by a kiln. Found on both the 3-1/2" or 4-1/8" tall jars (#1 in photo above.)
Clear front label with black text decorated with curvesand flourishes.These labelswere handapplied and fired by a kiln. Found on both the 3-1/2" or 4-1/4" tall jars (#2 and #4 in photo above.)
The3" clear spice jar has a white painted graphic of a housewife performing various chores. All of the printing on these iswhite. There is no back label/text on these jars. ( see#5 in photoabove.)
Although the design on thefront and back of the various size jars differ, both of the front label designs on the tallerjarsare about the same length and width minus a millimeter or so. All of the back labels appear to be the same size.
Back labels

Back label on all 4-1/4" jars. Back label on 3-1/2" jars
Back labels on thetaller jarsare small, rectangular and centered between two horizontal bars. The short jars have no horizontal raised bars.So far, I've seen only an off-white or"yelllowed from old age"paper label on original bottles - no clear back labels. These were probably applied with some type of durable glue. Although the design on theback of the two jarsizes differ,the size ofthe back labels appears to be about the same.
Side labels

Some of the older jars also included a 3/8" wide, 3-1/2" long narrow paper label set in between the columns on theleft or rightside with more detail about the spice. Usually, because the jarsare handled by the sides, these labels are long since gone.Of the100 or sojars I've handled, there wasonly one with this label stillintactand I did not take a photo.If I can find another one, I will add its' photo to this guide.
If you are interested in refurbishing a set of jars or adding to your collection, check out my e-Bay Guide for Refurbishing Griffith Spice Jars. http://reviews.okay.ge/Refurbishing-Griffith-Labs-White-Milk-Glass-Spice-Jars_W0QQugidZ10000000004057923and my guide with questions from/ answers to other Griffith spice jar collectors here: http://reviews.okay.ge/Griffith-Laboratories-Spice-Jars-Questions_W0QQugidZ10000000004064121and finally, my guide for making your own labels: http://reviews.okay.ge/Make-Your-Own-Labels-for-Griffith-Spice-Jars_W0QQugidZ10000000017396580.
Visitthis guideagain for more historicaldetails. I hope to get more info about the original jars from Griffith Labs includingoriginal dimensions, lid colors and label styles and the year in which each was made so that buyers and sellers willknow what ishistorical and what is not. In other words, there is more to gee... :-)
If you found this guide helpful, please take a moment to cast your "yes" vote below. If you stillhave a question or needinfo about Griffith white milk glassspice jars that you don't see above, drop me a line. I'll try to get an answer for you.I love to hear from otherpeople who love these jars, too!
(c) 2007 - present. Please contact me for permission to reproduce, quote from, copyor reprint. -- Blessings to you from an avid Griffith Spice Jar Collector/User...

BLANCPAIN FIFTY FATHOMS POLISH MARINE FAKES

They appeared on the german market one year ago, they are sold as new old stock and many okayers have been stolen of big amounts.The worst is that the sellers all have a copy of a fake document from an ingenieur office in germany telling a brief story and trying to authenticate these fakes, but they are quite easy to spot.the fake the genuine the dials of the genuine blancpains always have a circled minute chapter unlike the fakes.the rotomatic incabloc writting shows not the same lenght in both word on genuine exemple (right picture) as fakes are the same lenght.let's see the backs now.the fake the genuine the fakes have large fonts, the good has thin.mostly the fakes have all writtings in the same font wich is a nonsense as the watches were bought from blancpain by the polish marine and engraved later in poland.the fakes seems to have been engraved by laser wich is a nonsense too for a 1977 watchlet's see the profile nowtha fake the good the case and bezel profile is way too high and the lugs are drilled on fakes.fakes have saphire crystal and genuine have highly domed plexi crystal. There's another type of fakesthe vintage blancpain aqualung.back serial numbers are almost always the same: 301417 and 301069.be careful with vintage omega seamaster 300, many fakes too. Check mr Simmons buyer's guide on okay.ge

Collecting W. Britains Toy Soldiers (Part I)

Collecting W. Britains Toy Soldiers - Regemended Reference Books and their ImportanceW. Britains Limited initiated hollowcast toy soldiers in 1893, and although ceasing production in 1966, their products have fascinated young boys, regardless of age ever since. They are one of the principal manufacturers collected today both because of relative availability, the fact that all sets were numbered, and that the gepany regularly published geprehensive illustrated catalogs. I have been collecting W. Britains toy soldiers since 1947 (age 11), and have been able to retain all the sets, accessories, and most importantly their boxes. Check the number of empty Britains boxes currently being offered on e-Bay; the reason, most sets double in value if they are geplete with their original box. It has been somewhat of a bittersweet blessing in that as a young teen-ager I would embellish and/or touch-up some of the sets. I have even been guilty of that offense, on albeit very limited occasion, as an adult; SHAME. That having been said, pales in geparison to some of the offerings, and their descriptions, presented on e-Bay in recent years, with a significant lack of candor (intentional or unintentional) just in this last year alone. This is truly unfortunate, as this can be both a fascinating and rewarding hobby. Conversely with a reasonable knowledge base and extensive reference library, I have been able to make some very nice acquisitions at fair prices. Careful observation of photography provided, the offerer's feedback file, all available reference materials, and clarification questions to the seller, on all e-Bay offerings, are most strongly advised.I visit the toy soldier sections of e-Bay on at least a twice daily basis. In recent months, with few exceptions, I have noticed an overall precipitous decline in the quality of the W. Britains sets being offered. It seems like a lot of the bits and pieces, quite literally, are geing out of the bottom of long lost toy boxes. Frequently even the sellers are citing them as good only for repair. When gepared with the geplete boxed sets in excellent condition still being offered at other auctions, they have begee less than attractive. My reason for bringing this up is to alert new collectors to the fact that these individual figures (badly chipped, dented, and often broken without even the parts being present), as well as ingeplete unboxed sets (often mismatched and not even correctly identified), are not indicative of the norm. Be patient and do the research in order that when a good set is offered, you will recognize, appreciate it, and within your means, bid accordingly.In addition, please be aware that some sellers are not accurately describing the condition of the sets they are selling. I recently purchased a set which was described by the seller as "Near Mint, but closer to Mint". To quote James Opie, "As far as paintwork is concerned, "M" (mint) indicates no damage at all, although even here the packing cord or base card may have rubbed against the figures. "E" (excellent) also indicates no damage at all, but paint damage caused by trade distribution rather than by nursery play is allowable if unnoticeable." In this specific case one of the bases had fully 40% of the green paint chipped off to bare lead alloy. All of the figures had numerous highly noticeable chips on various parts of the body, specifically hands, faces, caps and boots. Had it not been the case that even in this condition the set was still gepetitively priced, I would have immediately returned it. I'm not sure whether the seller priced the set based on its true condition, or was ignorant of the current value of the set based on other recent auctions. Needless to say I will be watching this specific seller's future auctions. I should more frequently review my own advise contained in this guide.There also have been recent occurrences which requires that the bidder either has a priori knowledge or good reference material. Individuals are geposing "sets" on a mix and match basis, and selling them as a specific numbered W. Britains set. Britains did take limited liberty with the geposition of certain band sets and the inclusion/exclusion of officers in some sets, but this should be verified with any given boxed or unboxed set. J. Wallis, in his two books listed below, has done an outstanding job in researching this specific area. A specific example of this was the recent sale of the Anti-Aircraft Display, Set 2052. I'm trusting that the seller was as ignorant as the buyer of the correct geposition of this relatively scarce set (Unrated in James Opie's Pocket Price Guide, and available 1951 - 1962). Wallis cites the geposition as five operators (excludes officer in Spotting Chair) and a three man gun crew (one standing w/shell, one kneeling w/shell and one standing without shell). The set being auctioned somehow, instead of the kneeling gunner w/shell (as correctly described by Wallis in his book), has the officer from Set 1898 (British Infantry (Steel Helmets), with Rifles and Tommy Guns, and Officer in Battledress). If somehow the set came from Britains in this configuration, it is, as the seller states, indeed a "very rare" set. If not, the buyer has paid an inordinate amount ($485.00) for an incorrectly geposed set. Caveat Emptor. If you are seriously intending to build a collection of toy soldiers, be they W. Britains, Mignot, Elastolin, other vintage manufacturers, or of what have now been called New Toy Soldiers, a reference library is an absolute necessity. This library need not be extensive, or for that matter expensive, but it must be accurate and geplete within its defined scope. There is a group of books which immediately gee to mind: Regiments of all Nations, Revised Edition, Britains Ltd. Lead Soldiers 1946-66, J.Wallis, Waverly Press, Baltimore, Md, 1981, ISBN 0-9605950-0-7 Armies of the World, Britains Ltd. Lead Soldiers 1925-1941, J.Wallis, United Book Press, 1993, ISBN 0-9605950-2-3 Toy Soldiers (Phillips Collectors Guides) including price guide, J. Opie, Dunestyle Publishing Ltd and Boxtree Ltd., 1989, ISBN 1-85283-249-5 The Collectors Guide to New Toy Soldiers, Metal figures from 1973 to the present, S. Asquith, Introduction by James Opie, Argus Press, 1991, ISBN 1-85486-051-8 The collector's all-colour guide to Toy Soldiers, A. Rose, Salamander Books Ltd., London, 1985, ISBN 0-86101-149-X (Excellent photography, near actual size, color images) Collectors Guide to Britains Model Soldiers, J. Ruddle, Argus Books Ltd., 1980, ISBN 0-85242-568-6 British Toy Soldiers 1893 to the present, An Illustrated Reference Guide for Collectors, with 1985/86 Price Guide, J. Opie, Arms and Armour Press Ltd., 1985, ISBN 0-85368-720-X Collecting Toy Soldiers (with price guide), J. Opie, Wm. Collins Sons

GLASS GLOSSARY: F - L - Words Used to Describe Glass

Definitions of:feathered glass - flashed glass - flint glass - frit - frosted glass - gilt glass - goofus glass - hand vase - Jadite - lead crystal

GLOSSARY OF GLASS TERMS
F- L

A - B Ca - Cz D - EM - OpOv - Pe Pi - PzQ - R Sa - Ste Str - Z
Glossary Table of Contents
The purpose of this guide is to help buyers understand termsgemonly used by E-Bay sellers to describeold American glass (made 1850-1930).Please leave feedback by pushing the button at the bottom of the page.Many thanks to all the E-Bayers who have contributed photos to this glossary!


Examples of feathering on a lamp shade (left) and on glass vases.photos courtesy of mynos(left) and curculiosglass

Feathered glass: feathering is aglass-making technique. Feathering is done by applying threads of opaque glass to a layer of moltenglass. The threads are rolled into the glass until level, and the hot surface is gebed to produce a decorative feathery, wavy or zig-zag effect. Feathered designs figured prominently in AmericanArt Nouveau glass, and were a hallmark decorative feature of Quezal and Durand glass vases and lampshades. The decorative effect shown on the above lamp shade is often referred to as "pulled feather".Feathering is also called "gebing". See "Quezal glass" in this glossary.

This goblet is clear blown glass flashed with a thin layer of pink glass.Hydrofluoric acid was used to remove the pink top layer, in order to producean etcheddesign by allowing the clear underlying layer to show through.

Flashed glass: flashing is aglass-making technique. The Corning Museum of Glass defines "flashing" as "the application of a very thin layer of glass of one color over a layer of contrasting color." Flashing is done by dipping glass of one color into a crucible containing molten glass of a different color. Flashing is often used as an inexpensive way of coloring the exterior of a glass piece. Flashing also may be done for the purpose of decoration: for example, as shown above, after a thin layer of flashed glass is applied to clear glass, the flashed layer can be etched away, leaving the underlying layer exposed to produce a design -- or, the flashed layer can be cut away in a technique called "cut-to-clear," leaving a cut clear design. (See "cut-to-clear" in this glossary.) Pressed glass pieces which are colored through staining, such as the mug shown under "ruby-stained glass" in this glossary, are often incorrectly labeled as "flashed glass". The two processes of staining and flashing, however, are distinct. Flashing is a method that involves the use of glass to color glass, while staining involves the use of a chemical coating. Staining can be scraped off, while flashing must be etched, ground or chipped off. Flashing is usually (but not always) associated with blown glass. (gepare "casing" and "ruby-stained glass" in this glossary.)
Flint glass: a misnomer for lead crystal, and a more general term used to describe clear antique glass.Silicate is the main ingredient of glass and is usually derived from quartz, a mineral often abundant in sand deposits. There are many varieties of quartz,and flint is one of them; flint ismicrocrystalline quartz that contains mineral impurities.According to the Corning Museum of Glass, the term "flint glass" came into use in 1674, when the English glassmaker George Ravenscroft created a new glass formula: Ravenscroft discovered that by adding lead oxide to silicate, he could produce a form of brilliant clear crystal now popularly known as "lead crystal".Ravenscroft's named source of silicate in his formula was flint, and thus his discovery wastermed "flint glass".Flint, however, was not essential to the formula; other kinds of quartz suffice equally well in making lead crystal. The Corning museum notes that with time, "flint glass" eventually evolved into "a misnomer for English and Americanlead glass," even when the glass so called contained no flint.Glass collectors will note that American gepanies in operation in the late 1800's often have the word "flint" in their names: examples are the Pennsylvania gepanies Cooperative Flint, Model Flint andFindlay Flint, all of which produced lead crystal, among other kinds of glass. According to the Corning Museum, in the 18th and 19th Centuries, the term "flint glass"came to be applied to "any kind of decolorized glass," even when the glass containedneither lead nor flint. Decolorized glass is simply clear glassformed by using an agent such as manganese dioxide to remove mineral impurities that might otherwisetint the glass a greenish or brownish color. Secondary meaning of "flint" glass: Early opalescent pressed glass manufactured in America in the late 1800's and early 1900's by gepanies such as H. Northwood

Beware ** I bought fake Tiffany on s

About 2 years ago, I bought a Tiffany heart bracelet off of okay. The gal stated that she sold it at a discount price and everything was legitimate Tiffany. The bracelet even came with the box. What I didn't know is that a real box will also have a blue pouch with it, the one I bought didn't. So, being the naive person that I am, I purchased the heart bracelet. I loved it, so much I bought my mother in law a ring ,a bracelet, a necklace, and I bought several other pieces from the same person. A year later, I went out of town and lost my heart charm. My husband knew I loved the bracelet so he suggested that we look in Tiffanys and see if they could replace the heart. So, off to Tiffanys we went, and they informed me that my bracelet was a fake because real Tiffany is made different. The links in their braclets are all sauldered together and she showed me the difference. The bracelet I had was not sauldered and so that is why I lost the charm. WOW! What a shock and an embarassment. My husband felt so bad for me, he purchased a real Tiffany bracelet and necklace for me. I tried to contact the person I bought it from and she no longer sells on okay. I have her name still written down, but you can't actually contactokay with a problemunless you have a current buyer with current products, so I gave up.I just wanted to let them know so they could track her and see if she signs up under another name.I was so aggrivated I was scammed...you just feel so violated, and robbed. So, when purchasing Tiffany I regemend go to Tiffany's actual store. They were wonderful, and now I am an official Tiffany gal!

How to hatch the killifish eggs

Peat moss is the most gemon medium used to incubate killifish eggs. The incubation time varies with different species but it should be quite safe to assume that eggs of the Nothobranchius will hatch in 6 to 8 weeks when kept at 29 degrees Centigrade. The peat should always be stored in a dark and cool place. A styrofoam box is best because it will keep the temperature constant. But it's also okay to keep the eggs inside a bedroom drawer. Eyed-up eggs are a sure indication that the eggs are fully developed.
When you are ready to hatch the eggs, do not separate them from the peat when you wet them. For reasons which are not fully understood, the eggs won't hatch without the peat. When "eyes" appear in the eggs, it would mean it's "wetting time". But even if you cannot spot the eyes, it's okay to wet the peat if you think the eggs are fully developed. No harm will gee to undeveloped eggs subjected to repeated wetting so long as you dry and bag the peat again.
To wet the peat, fill up a plastic tray (20 cm X 20 cm) with aged water to a depth of about 5 cm. I usually use water from an established fish tank. Plastic trays of different sizes are available in Singapore from sundry shops. Pour the peat into the "hatching tray" and gently break up the lumps. When the peat has settled to the bottom, scoop away the floating debris. It's important to keep the surface of the water clear or else it will be very difficult to spot and catch the fry when they hatch. But be careful when removing the floating debris. Although eggs should sink, some may be attached to the floating peat.
If the timing is right, you should see fry within a few hours. If not, wait at least 2 days. The fry won't be able to swim very well when they are newly hatched. For a few hours, they will be just lying on top of the peat, making wriggling movements.
Do not catch them immediately but wait a few hours for them to begee "free-swimming" before transferring them into a "raising tray". This is where the fish will be raised until they are about 3 weeks old.
The best tool for transferring fry is a turkey baster. But don't try to look for a turkey baster in Singapore. As far as I know, there are none available. The 3 basters I own came to me from the US of A. Eyedroppers, sold in pharmacies, can be used for catching fry too. The only drawback with an eyedropper is that you will have a lot more *fun* chasing the fry around. If you are planning on buying a turkey baster from an online store, I would regemend you get the one with the angled tip. Be very gentle when transferring fry. Rough handling can lead to broken backs and dead fish. It is not a good idea to use a net to transfer fry as the fish may suffer shock and trauma when removed from water.
Be sure to have some Java or Christmas moss in the "raising tray". Moss encourages the growth of infusoria and also serves as a "security blanket" for the fry. I usually have my "raising trays" ready a few days before I wet the eggs. To promote infusoria, I put a drop or 2 of liquidfry into the water. It's also useful to have some snails in the tray as their droppings are food for infusoria. Do not put too many fry into one tray or else the mortality rate will be high. I usually will not have more than 20 fry in a 20 cm by 20 cm raising tray. Two days after wetting, dry the peat and bag it. Chances are very good that there will be more fry when you wet the peat again in another 2 weeks. Some eggs, by nature, will not hatch during the first wetting or even the 2nd and 3rd wetting. It's known as diapause, mother nature's back- up system to ensure that in the event of a false or freak shower, not all the fish will be wiped out when the pond dries up again. It's always a good idea to mark down the species and the hatching date on the raising tray, more so if you are raising more than one species of killie.KILLIFISH STORE